Featured Article (May 2003)

Care About Your Horse's Back Soundness? Here is The Ten Step System for Saddle Fit

Saddle-fit is a complex subject. However, ten objective saddle-fitting steps, established by the Master Saddlers Association, US, assess the quality of a saddle's fit concisely. Most equestrians need to understand that the FIRST STEP in attaining proper saddle-fit is correct saddle "placement." Incorrect placement will make a well-fitted saddle "not fit." Many riders place their saddles too far forward. This makes the saddle's tree points (the vertical wooden/steel processes on both sides of the pommel) place painful pressure onto the horse's shoulder blades by "loading" the horse's shoulders with the rider's weight, restricting free movement.

Similarly, even when placed correctly, some saddles "move" too far forward due to the horse's biomechanics-most commonly, for example, in dressage horses. (Such situations may require an additional billet strap to be attached to the tree's points-thus keeping the saddle in its proper place.)

In both situations, such horses will show various signs of discomfort ranging from ear pinning to bucking or rearing-in addition to a sore back.

1 - To test yourself on your saddle's "placement," have your horse stand square, on level ground. Without a pad, place your saddle on your horse's back a bit forward, on the horse's withers. Put your right hand on the pommel, and give the saddle a short shove back. You will notice that the saddle's tree points stop repeatedly at a resting place dictated by your horse's unique conformation which will be behind the shoulders. Repeat this exercise several times if you are doubtful of the first result. The result will probably surprise you when compared to your "normal" placement.

The remaining NINE STEPS follow below. If you achieve one of the steps, but not the other(s), your saddle's fit is in question.

2 - Pommel/cantle relationship: Cantle should be higher than the pommel.

3 - Seat levelness: Seat's deepest part should be dead center in the middle between the pommel and cantle.

4 - Tree point angle: Compare the angle of the tree points to the angle of the horse's musculature against where they rest (behind the shoulder!). These angles should be parallel to one another.

5 - Wither clearance: With rider in the saddle, pad less. Ideally, 2-3 inches of vertical clearance should exist.

6 - Channel width: Saddle's channel (space between saddle's panels) should be 2 ¼ to 2 ½ inches wide throughout, possibly wider depending upon the horse's conformation.

7 - Panel pressure: Place your hand under the panels. Allow the "weight" of the saddle to press upon your hand as you run your hand from pommel to cantle under the panel. Any variability in weight is how your weight is distributed onto your horse's back.

8 - 18th Thoracic Vertebrae: The saddle's panels should not rest on the lumbar region (behind the thoracic)-defined by the 18th and last rib which can be palpated near his loin. Follow it vertically "up" to his spine and make an estimated guess where it ends. Behind this is lumbar region.

9 - With rider up, watch the saddle at all paces. It should be stable, not move forward, to one side, or up and down.

10 - Finally: What does the horse have to say? Watch his body language and way of going.