Featured Article (July 2005)

Hurricane And Disaster Preparedness For Your Horses Part One: Before the Storm

Hurricane season started June 1. Are you ready? Many of us thought we were ready until Hurricane Charley proved otherwise. As the old adage goes, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." The good news is that we often have at least several days’ notice prior to hurricane landfall to prepare. The bad news is that other disasters, such as wild fires, flooding, and tornados, and man-made disasters (train wrecks, chemical spills, nuclear accidents, etc.) may not give us much warning. Having a plan in effect BEFORE the high-risk seasons can save you a lot of time, effort, and heartache, and may save you and your animals’ lives.

Evaluate where you live; what potential disasters pose risks for your area? Some of the following recommendations specifically address hurricanes, but most can be applied to any form of disaster.

Make a personal family plan:

What will your family do if caught in a disaster? You should have your own plan before the season, including safe areas to wait out the storm and meet if separated. Have a disaster kit handy for your family, with a minimum of three days’ worth of supplies, food, and clean water. You can’t help your animals or neighbors if your family isn’t safe.

Make a neighborhood plan:

Get together with your neighbors before the high-risk season begins, and establish a hurricane/disaster plan for your immediate area. Important factors include clearing roads/driveways, checking on neighbors that weathered the storm at home, and providing physical assistance where needed. Pool your resources! We can accomplish more together than apart.

Have a list of important phone numbers with you at all times. This would include your veterinarian, water control, the power company, your family physician, the local police and fire station, one or more of your neighbor’s phone numbers, and family members’ names and numbers (one in the area, but one that lives outside the area would also be of benefit should your family need to be contacted). Although the telephone lines may be out, there may be limited cellular service. It is important to remember to use a phone (cellular or otherwise) only in emergency after a disaster, because the lines of communication available to emergency personnel may be limited.

Evacuation:

If you plan to evacuate, you should be on your way out of the area at least 72 hours before the storm is estimated to hit the area. This will give you the best chance of avoiding heavy traffic. Livestock trailers are not stable in high winds, and you may not be allowed on the road when the wind speed is 40 mph or higher. Allow yourself extra time, especially if you have horses that do not load quickly into a trailer. Don’t forget your negative Coggins test form and a health certificate if you plan to leave the state.

If you are under mandatory evacuation orders, get out of town! The government does not issue these orders hastily or carelessly, and you should take them seriously. Remember that predicting the path of a hurricane is NOT an exact science. If you are told to evacuate and you do not do so, you could be putting everyone’s life at risk. If the storm takes a "lucky" turn for you (as Hurricane Charley did for the Tampa area in August 2004), just be glad that you were safe and don’t question the evacuation orders the next time. You might not be so lucky the next time.

Housing:

What’s best: the barn or the field? There are advantages and disadvantages to both, but most authorities recommend turning your horses out. If they are in a barn that collapses, they do not have an escape route, and may become seriously injured or killed. Collapsed barns killed many horses during Hurricane Andrew. On the other hand, flying debris can hurt them in a field.

The ideal place is an open field that is as free of debris and exotic trees as possible, is away from power and phone lines, has low areas for shelter, and has high areas that do not flood. Woven wire fence is recommended by many authorities as a safer type of fence, but no fence is truly hurricane-proof. If possible, mow any tall grass when you first hear a storm may be approaching; after the storm, it is a lot harder to find debris in tall grass.

If you do not feel that your premises has any safe areas, make arrangements before hurricane season with someone who will agree to house your horse(s), and relocate your horse at least three days before the storm is due. You will need a current Coggins, proof of vaccination, and a health certificate for most facilities. Remember that they still may be injured or killed during the storm if they are still in the target area; it is best to have a written agreement or contract pre-arranged. An excellent example of this form is available at http://www.hsus2.org/sheltering/library/disaster_forms_insert.pdf.

Identification:

It is likely that part or all of your fence will be damaged or destroyed during a hurricane. If your horses get out, they need to be identified so that they can be returned to you and so you can be notified if they are injured or killed during the storm. You cannot have too much identification on your horse in the case of a hurricane.

A well-fitting halter is a must. Leather halters, or nylon halters with a breakable leather strap, may be safer because they will break if the horse’s head becomes entangled and it struggles excessively. Write your horse’s name, your name, address, and phone number on the halter itself with permanent marker. Alternatively, and you can write the information on a file card, seal it in a Ziploc bag, and tape it securely to the halter. You may choose to put a picture of the horse or a copy of your Coggins test with the file card to aid in identification. Do NOT put your copy of the Coggins test in the bag with the identification, or a dishonest person could potentially transport your horse out of the state. If your horse has any special medical needs or concerns, be sure to include them on the card. Halter tags can also be of use; any of the tags marketed for dog and cat collars can be attached to a halter. However, make sure that the tag is not so large or hangs so low that it may become caught on something. In addition to marking the halter, you can braid a luggage tag into your horse’s tail; however, do not tie the tag around the tail.

Fetlock ID bands can be purchased and placed around both front pasterns just below the fetlock. Bands are available from the Palm Beach County (FL) Horse Industry Council at (561) 795-2466. Make sure that they are not so loose that they are likely to catch on something, or so tight that they interfere with blood flow to the hoof. Neck ID bands, such as those used by many large breeding farms, are also acceptable, with similar precautions.

Livestock marking crayons are convenient for writing your phone number and address on your horse’s body. They are weather-proof, easy to use, and are readily available from most feed stores or livestock catalogs (such as Nasco). Have several on hand prior to hurricane season, in a color that shows up well on your horse’s coat. The marks may be difficult to remove, but you’ll be glad you did it if your horses get out of their field. Another option would be to use small clippers and clip the hair to spell out the information, but it does require more time and precision; this is not a suitable option for horses with very short haircoats because it will be less visible.

Permanent options for identification include tattooing, branding, freeze branding, and microchipping. Make sure that brands are legible, and take pictures of any unique brands or markings for identification purposes. Although tattoos are permanent, they may become illegible or unreadable over time. The most common microchips used in horses are the AVID brand. Your veterinarian can place the microchip; it should be placed in the nuchal ligament along the crest of the neck halfway between the poll and withers. One advantage to the microchip is that it can provide almost indisputable evidence of ownership, because the microchip cannot be tampered with once it is inserted. In order for the microchip to be found, the horse must be scanned with a handheld scanner that detects the chip. The microchip scanners will only detect a number; the manufacturer of the microchip must then be contacted in order to obtain the owner’s information. In the early phases of a disaster, there may not be adequate time or staff to scan animals for microchips unless there is a tag designating that the animal has been microchipped. Tags that can be put on the horse’s halter (to notify others that the horse has a microchip in place) can be purchased with the microchip.

Feed and water:

The average horse will drink at least 5-10 gallons of water a day, and this amount will increase in warm weather. Water deprivation leading to dehydration and subsequent kidney failure was one of the leading causes of equine deaths following Hurricane Andrew. If you are on "town water," store as much water as possible in buckets with lids before the storm so that you will have a water supply after the storm. If you have a well, it would be a good investment to have a hand pump installed before hurricane season, or have a portable generator handy to run the well pump. Keep a 2-week supply of feed and hay, preferably in waterproof containers. Clean your garbage cans thoroughly, fill them with water before the hurricane, secure the lids, and store them in the barn. It is recommended that you store 12-20 gallons of water for each horse per day.

If you choose to leave your horses in the barn during the storm, hang two or more full buckets of water in each horse’s stall. Fill all water troughs (this not only serves to store water, but anchors the trough against strong winds).

Also check the area for alternate water sources, including streams, lakes, and ponds. If your neighbor has a well and you don’t, try to arrange well privileges with them in case of emergency.

Preventive care:

You should make sure that your horses’ vaccinations are current before the season begins or at least try to have them updated as soon as you hear that a storm may be approaching (but keep in mind that others may be trying to get the veterinarian’s services, too). Vaccines may be hard to come by after a hurricane because of the lack of refrigeration necessary to preserve them, so it is best to avoid this situation if at all possible. Tetanus is most important, because the organism that causes it (Clostridium tetani) gains entry into the body through wounds. Horses wounded during the storm can be at high risk of tetanus if unvaccinated. It is also very important to make sure that your horses are well vaccinated for mosquito-borne diseases (especially Eastern and Western Encephalitis and West Nile), because the mosquito population will likely be very high after a storm due to wet conditions and standing water. Following Hurricane Charley in August 2004, fly spray was one of the most frequently requested items.

It is important to remember that, should you choose to evacuate your horses, the majority of facilities will require current vaccinations and a current negative Coggins (Equine Infectious Anemia) test. In addition, if you are leaving the state, you may need a health certificate in addition to the negative Coggins test.

You may wish to put a fly mask and/or light sheet on your horse to protect from small airborne debris. Do not put the identification information only on the mask or sheet, however, because these may become lost.

Records:

Make sure that you keep a copy of any insurance policies in case you need to make a claim. You will also need to keep your copy of the Coggins test paper safe; this can confirm your horse’s identity as well as serve as proof of ownership.

Medications:

Remember that you may not have access to a pharmacy or your veterinarian’s office for some time after a hurricane. If your horse requires any special medications, make sure that you have a 1-2 week supply safely stored before the storm.

Barn safety:

Before the season is due to begin, you should evaluate your property. Are there any dead trees or limbs overhanging your barn or fence line? If so, it’s smart to address them before they collapse and cause property damage and/or injury. Is there any junk or unnecessary debris laying around? If so, getting rid of it before the season will save you cleanup time before the storm and will decrease the amount of airborne debris that could cause serious injury or death.

Electrocution was also a leading cause of death following Hurricane Andrew. Turn off the main circuit breakers to your barn, and avoid turning your horses out in fields next to or near power lines. Some horses were electrocuted because they were seeking shelter in lower ground and the only low ground they could find were drainage ditches with downed power lines. Power surges can also start lethal fires, so it is best to cut the power supply to the barn.

Secure all movable objects and remove all loose items from the barn aisles and stall doors and store them in a safe place.

If your barn is prone to flooding, consider digging drainage ditches and/or piling sand bags to limit the entry of water.

You should have a barn emergency kit, including the following: extra halters and lead ropes, clean towels, spare bucket(s) for water (in case your regular buckets are damaged or lost), portable radio and extra batteries, flashlight and extra batteries, sharp knife, wire cutters, tarps, lime, and bleach. You may also wish to store spare fencing supplies in case you need to construct a temporary corral for your horses. Other tools that may come in handy for post-storm cleanup include a chain saw (and fuel), hammer and nails, wire cutters, a well-stocked tool box, and a crow bar or pry bar.

A fire extinguisher that is also effective for electrical fires is a must in any barn. Have routine maintenance checks performed on the extinguisher prior to hurricane season and at regular intervals as directed by the manufacturer.

Jumps and any furniture (picnic tables, chairs, etc.) should be secured in a safe place. Park any vehicles and trailers in an open field away from trees.

First Aid:

When the disaster/hurricane is over and you go to check the animals, few things are more stressful than finding an injury or sick horse and having no supplies to render basic first aid. Remember, your veterinarian will likely be very busy in the aftermath of the storm, and there may be a delay in getting to your horses. It is also possible that the roads to your barn may be impassable for several days after the storm. Have a first aid kit safely stored in a water resistant container. Some recommended items are listed below:

• Roll cotton
• Rolls of gauze
• 4x4 gauze sponges
• Vetrap or similar disposable self-sticking wrap
• Leg quilts (quilt batting also acceptable)
• Antibiotic ointment (Nolvasan® ointment, nitro furazone ointment, or similar)
• Eye ointment (triple antibiotic ointment, no steroid) Phenylbutazone ("bute") tablets or paste
• Banamine® injection or paste
• Povidone-iodine (Betadine®) scrub and solution for cleaning wounds
• Alcohol
• Saline solution (the type in squeeze bottles mar- keted for sensitive eyes/contact lenses works well)
• Stethoscope
• Thermometer
• Hoof pick
• Scissors
• Ace bandage (for pressure wraps)
• Knife or multi-tool
• Flashlight and batteries
• Extra halters and leads
• Epsom salts
• Cut bicycle tubing (to use as a tourniquet)
• Thrush treatment (bleach solution or commercial thrush product)
• Towels
• And, of course, no first aid kit is complete without duct tape

Some of these items, such as the Banamine® and bute, will need to be supplied by your veterinarian. If you have these items on hand from the previous year, check the expiration dates to make sure that the drugs have not expired, and replace them if they are out of date.

If you don’t know how to assess your horse’s gums, heart rate, and temperature, ask your veterinarian to show you.

Horse trailers:

Although it is recommended that you park your trailer facing the direction of the wind, the wind direction in a hurricane is not always predictable. Park your trailer away from the barn and horses. Before the season, you can stock up on camper tie-downs to secure your trailer and other equipment.

Getting help:

It is also a good idea to think how you may communicate with others after the storm BEFORE the storm actually hits. One recommendation is to take 2 pieces of plywood and paint "Have animals, need help" on one side of the board, and "Have animals, OK for now" on the other side (now you have two boards, identically labeled). Use black letters on red, or similar contrast, to enhance visibility. After the storm is over and you have assessed your animals and barn, you can put the plywood board out at your entrance to signal your status to others. You can put the other sign in a clear area with the appropriate side facing up, so that it may be seen by surveillance aircraft. If you live on a small road, you may also wish to have another sign with "Vet needed—horses" painted on it that can be put at the nearest intersection; this may help the veterinarian find your farm if the road signs have been destroyed. Keep the signs with your safely protected feed supply.

Let your neighbors know where you’ll be during the storm. If they know that you stayed home and they haven’t seen or heard from you, they’ll likely check on you and may save your and/or your animals’ lives.

Check with your veterinarian or animal control officer to see if there are "staging areas" for injured animals after the storm. These are previously designated areas where the veterinarians will be found to provide care for injured animals. Often, it is a fairgrounds or If you cannot get an injured animal to the veterinarian, go to the staging area and find a veterinarian who can come to you.

Your safety is extremely important, too:

Please don’t forget that your horses and other animals rely on you; therefore, your safety directly impacts their lives. If you are seriously injured or killed, you cannot help your animals. Do NOT stay in the barn with your horses during a hurricane: it is very unlikely that you will be able to calm them sufficiently if they are upset, and your risk of injury is significant. You need to be alive to save your animals; have your own written family disaster preparation plan, and be prepared!